September 8-12, 2008 (Mon-Fri)
Sicily is Italy’s largest island and the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea. Sicily (Sicilia) is an autonomous region of Italy. Because of its strategic location, Sicily was invaded over the centuries by many armies, and was once the site of Roman, Greek and Phoenician colonies. For history-buffs and interested tourists, remnants of those cultures remain to this day. Sicily is also famous for weather and great Sicilian food & wine. Its pleasant climate and scenic beauty make it a perfect vacation & travel photography destination.
This is my perception of Sicily Island before I take off. And also the key reasons we choose to go to sicily isand. It turns out to be an adventurous trip. It also let me know more about Italy!
Route: (21 hours train ride) Milan -> Crossing the sea to Messina -> Palermo (Capital of Sicily Island) -> (Road Trip) Mondello -> Trapani -> Marsala -> Agrigento <-> (Back home by train – 10 hours) Palermo -> Messina -> ( train ride – 9 hours) Naples -> Milan.
One of the things that shocks me is the economy of Italy. Beforehand, I know that an ongoing problem of the Italian economy has been the slow growth of industrialization in the south, which lags behind the north in most aspects of economic development. But I don’t expect the difference is so huge! … … Lack of infrastructure and organized crime have hampered development in the south and discouraged large corporations from opening there. Unemployment remained much higher in the south than in the north. Even in the capital of Sicily Island – Palermo, I feel like I am in Indonesia. Kids / Women are begging in McDonald’s at central train station.
Another things that surprise me alot is again… all shops are closed in Sicily Island! I cannot find a single shops open, even in weekdays – in some cities, even the restaurants are closed ! When will the Italian actually go to work? It is like a dead city, with all the shops in place but no one is there.
Changing from Lira to Euro
Italian consumers, businessmen, and politicians openly bemoan the decision to exchange the lira for Euros. I met a local couple on the train, they believe changing to euros has made them poorer and less competitive in the global market. Say coffee and pizza are 30% and 16% higher in euro than in lira, yet their salaries, pension have not increased much. The price rises have affected transport, telephone, motorway, cigarette and lottery charges. But the euro is only partially responsible for their economic woes. In reality, Italy’s economic struggles are rooted in internal problems that are much deeper than what businesses suggest and what politicians are willing to address.
Another things that surprise me is the train ride from North -> South. Trains are much dirtier and I feel unsafe most of the time! We have to make sure the train locks are in place. I feel like I am taking the train ride in Egypt! How can the train in north so different from the one in South? No air-conditioning is available in 2nd class onwards. Even the quality of the 1st class of the train is only equivalent to the normal coach in U.K., yet the cost of the transportation is quite high. I wonder how the general public can afford the transportation cost! In these 20+ hours train ride, I met an old man from Palerma, who make a switch with my window seat through changing the seat number label in the train by himself!
Despite the unpleasant train environment, I am fascinated by the ferry/train ride from Italy Mainland to Sicily. It is linked to the main Italian train network at Messina. We get to Sicily without leaving the train. The train is loaded onto a barge for the short trip across the straits of Messina. However, it will take more time that you think to travel in Sicily on the train, as trains, even along the main lines from Palermo to Siracusa, are notably slow.
Beautiful Beaches
Even though there is such a huge difference between North and South, the best of Sicily is its nature. I can never forget the beautiful landscapes of hills, vineyards, olive groves, almond orchards and endless wheat fields. Sicily is an island and, thus, is surrounded by the sea so blue that it seems unreal. Once we are off the train at Palerma, the first thing we do is to find the Tourist Center to ask for information and rent a car! We drive down to Mondello -> Trapani -> Marsala (stop at the beach at Lido al Gazebo) -> Agrigento (in the next 3 days. I particular like the family resort in Mondello beach, where we spend a night in its Saracen Village there!
Mondello
Noisy, popular and snobbish. Just how it is able to live together with these 3 elements is a mystery. And yet the beach par excellence of the Palermitani manages to be all these things. A complete mix of people including Palermitani, tourists, and residents flow into the most beautiful metropolitan sea in Sicily. Spread between Monte Pellegrino, defined by Goethe the most beautiful promontory in the world, and Mount Gallo, Mondello faces a small gulf with a beach one and a half kilometres long.
Mondello … From Swampm to Gemstone
Mondello, however, is a tourist invention and of recent construction. Up until the end of the last century, the entire area was an unhealthy malaria infected swamp. The water stagnated and created evil-smelling miasmas which infected the whole area. Many unsuccessful attempts were made to decontaminate it. Finally a Palermo noble, Prince Francesco Lanza di Scalea, using an Italo-Belgian device, managed to drain the stagnant water into a subterranean basin. After that the Les Tramways de Palermo established a transport service between the borough and the city centre and a building programme was begun. Soon the name of Mondello as an exclusive holiday resort went around the world!
Tempio di Giunone @ Agrigento
In our last stop of Sicily Island, we head to Agrigento. It is renowned as the site of the ancient Greek city of Akragras, one of the leading cities of during the golden age of Ancient Greece. We pay a visit to Tempio di Giunone. This temple of Juno (Greek Hera) was destroyed by the Carthaginians and rebuilt by the Romans amous Valle dei Templi (“Valley of the Temples”, a misnomer, as it is a ridge, rather than a valley). This comprises a large sacred area on the south side of the ancient city where seven monumental Greek temples were constructed during the 6th and 5th centuries BCE. Now excavated and partially restored, they constitute some of the largest and best-preserved ancient Greek buildings outside of Greece itself. They are listed as a World Heritage Site.
Best wine in Italy
Before we leave Sicily Island, we have a nice dinner at Marsala – where I enjoy a nice Italian wines made in Sicily and try my first taste of Seafood Risotto there!
Overall, it is a nice trip to understand the southern part of Italy. But I guess we will appreciate the beauty of the north more from now on!
More Photos at Photo Gallery http://community.webshots.com/album/567013336jLPWcH
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Reference:
– Sicily Island Map: http://www.struck.us/BikePics/Sicily/SicilyGeoMap.jpg
– BBC News “Italy rows over rising euro prices” : http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/business/1741232.stm
– “Exonerating euros: facing Italy’s economic problem”: http://www.allbusiness.com/public-administration/national-security-international/872563-1.html
“If you are a movie lover you can visit the famous ‘Godfather’ movie sites featured during the filming of these famous hit movies, places such as Corleone and Savoca”.
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