Bordeaux, France – la ville, le vin [Part 2]

April 21-23, 2009 (Tuesday – Thursday)

My Travel Log

Day 1 – Tour around rue Sainte Catherine & 1st night wine tasting in front of the Grand Theatre

After the 2 hours flight from London Luton, I arrived at Bordeaux in late afternoon (16:20p.m.). The Bordeaux airport was a very small local airport, yet shttle buses (Jet’Bus) were available from the airport to Gare St-Jean train station. It only took me 45 mins to arrive in the Touisme center at the city center, getting my accommodation confirmation and settling down in the hotel on the right bank of La Garonne.

fantastic white wine + cheese set at "Bar à Vin", overlooking the Grand Théâtre

In the evening, I got myself familar with the city and toured around one of the largest main shopping, pedestrian street (1.2km) in Bordeaux – rue Sainte-Catherine. Here I can find most of the popular shops in Europe. At night, I treated myself with a fantastic white wine + cheese set at “Bar à Vin“, overlooking the Grand Théâtre! With the superb weather, I enjoyed the sunset at around 9p.m. with the glass of wine in my hand.

Day 2 – A Day exploring the Grands Vins: Wine Museum tour in the morning, Saint-Emilion vineyard tour and wine tasting in the afternoon

There are lots of museums in Bordeaux. Coming to the largest and oldest fine wine producing region in the world,  I decided to take the tram to visit Musee Du Vin Et Du Negoce before the vineyard tour in the afternoon.

Situated in the district of Chartrons, traditionally dedicated to the busienss of the wine from the middle Ages, the museum occupies the first floor and the cellars of 41 Borie Street. This dwelling was built in the 1720 for an Irish trader. He settles his trade house and also his residence, as all the traders who came here at the same time to make fortune in Bordeaux. It is interesting to notice that the Chartrons district was still outside the city despite its importance in the economy of Bordeaux. It was separated from the city by the Chateau Trompette, amiliary fortress built by the French kings after the 100 years wars.

James de Coquet, a chronicler from Bordeaux, describes his impressions of the Chartrons district at the end of the XIX centtury, “A universe apart from the city of Bordeaux, the equivalent of the Forbidden city in Beijing”

The museum space is displayed in two of the vaulted cellars. It is divided into 4 key sections:

1. Wine Trade System (with modern scenography presents the historical documents) set by the British when Bordeaux was under the English control for 3 centuries from 1154. And how to wine exported to India back in 12th century.
2. The cellar
3. The marketing of wine – labels, bottle design, corking equipment etc. How Port of moon as the key area of trade
4. Tasting of a red & white at the souvenirs shop

I was particular impressed with the souvenirs shopkeeper who explained to me diligently different wine regions in Bordeaux when I was having the wine tasting.

In the afternoon, I joined the half-day long excursion to one of the world’s most famous vineyard regions – Saint-Emilion. I cannot help myself to compare the tour with the one I joined in Tuscany. Although Saint-Emilion is not as beautiful as the one in Italy, I was impressed by how French people organized the tour – really well-organized tour includes a visit to a family-owned wine chateau Larmande in the Saint Emilion appellation, followed by a tasting, a glimpse of the vineyards, and a tour in the nearby town enjoying the amazing underground monuments and the medieval town’s beautiful architecture.

Wine tasting @ Chateau Larmande in the Saint Emilion

I particularly amazed by the high-tech equipment used in today’s chateau. Wine are mostly blended. Red wine is more dominated than white. With the 5 key areas in the region, 3 out of 5 are red wine region.

I liked the medieval town very much. It reminded me San Gimignano in Italy!

My second day in Bordeaux ended at Miroir d’eau, where I sat there relaxly enjoying a wonderful sunset in front of the Port of Moon!

Day 3 – 2 hours City Tour

Before heading back to London, I joined the 2 hours city tour on my last day! Although by the 3rd day I have been to most of the places included in the tour, I knew the history better with the guided tour. I was particularly impressed by the government effort to perserve the building. Not to mention the money spent on restoration, but also all the new buildings were added on accordingly to its  original décor. I was surprised to hear Peruians and Mexicans were actually the first group of rich people came to Bordeaxu and built different infrastructures in churches

The Heritage Walks includes Place de la Bourse, Grand-Theatre, Place Gambetta, Cathedrale Saint-Andre et tour Pey-Berland … … The tour ends with the “showcase of Bordeaux’s heritage” inside the Tourisme office.

My trip @ Bordeaux ended with a fantastic lunch at one of the restaurants overlooking the La Garonne. During the lunch I met a Professor from Cambridge who happened to come to Bordeaux for a tennis tournament. First time to know the handicap system in Tennis as well! With a nice oyster set as the starter, a beef pasta and a glass of wine, I already missed Bordeaux alot before I took off.

I hope I can come to Bordeaux again! And I will definitely join the blending / wine appreciation workshop next time!

Bordeaux – the place I like, the place full of things for me to explore!

More Photos @ Photo Gallery http://travel.webshots.com/album/573379799CmHpcr

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Reference:

• Wine Tour /Tasting package: www.bordeaux-tourisme.com
• 2 nights package offered by Bordeaux Tourisme: http://www.bordeaux-tourisme.com/uk/preparer_son_sejour/forfaits/forfaits_bordeaux_decouverte.html
• Transportation in Bordeaux: http://insurance.essentialtravel.co.uk/tg-europe/france/bordeaux-getting-around.asp
• Musee Du Vin Et Du Negoc: http://www.mvnb.fr/
• Airport-City Center bus: Jet’ Bus: www.bordeaux.aeroport.fr (from Gare St-Jean <-> Office de Tourisme <-> Place Gambetta <-> Barriere Judaique <-> Aeroport)

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“Bordeaux est une ville curieuse, originale, peut-etre unique. Prenez Versailles et melez-y Anvers, vous avez Bordeaux.” by Victor Hugo (1843)

Bordeaux, France – la ville, le vin [Part 1]

April 21-23, 2009 (Tuesday – Thursday)

I always wanna visit southern part of France, especially attracted by its winery trails. With the last minute flight booking and a 3 days 2 nights package offered by Office de Tourisme de Bordeaux, I was off to this wonderful place in late April.

My first impression on Bordeaux

I LOVE THIS CITY! Partly because of its mix of 18th/19th century style infrastructure (but still cannot compare to the historical cities in Italy) and at the same time the city was full of high-tech facilities in a clean, fresh environment. During Montesquieu’s lifetime, in the 18th centruy, Bordeaux experienced tremendous growth in trade and population, which led to sweeping changes in the urbanlandscape. Colonial trade made Bordeaux the busiest port in France. As a result, today Bordeaux has more than 350 classified buildings and buildings listed as Historic Monuments, including 3 religious World Heritage buildings since 1998 as part of the Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France.

Miroir d'eau in front of Place de la Bourse

Why the cities was full of high-tech facilities. It was mainly because of the urban project launched in 1996 by the local government – which includes the cleaning of façades, the development of the quays along the Garonne river, the commissioning of the tram in 1999 that runs on a ground-level power supply and the requalification of urban areas strengthened this desire to protect and showcase Bordeaux’s heritage. The city totally support eco-tourism. No car is allowed in some areas. Underground parking were built instead. And I saw lots of cyclist in the whole city. I was particular impressed their effort to perserve the buildings and keep the 2 city gates. All the new infrastructures were built based on the original design in 19th century!

I also impressed by the effort of the Bordeaux Tourisme. Everything was organized in a structural and convenient way for tourists. First, they focused on rebuilting the whole city as a terrific tourist spots – the superb tram system, the Miroir d’eau – a key feature of the Garonne waterfront redevelopment project which became a popular tourist spot and wonderful kid’s playground were some of the examples. Second, a fantastic 2 nights package was offered which includes accommodation, city and wine tasting tour. Third, Bordeaux, Port of Moon was incribed on the World Heritage List in 2007. and a marketing slogan “World Heritage, Fine Wines & Gastronomy” (“Patrimoine Mondial, Grands Vins & Gastronomie”) was created!

More photos in Photo Gallery http://travel.webshots.com/album/573379799CmHpcr

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Do you Know? – History of Bordeaux

This small city in the southwest of France has long been at the hub of the most important wine growing region in the world. Since the 13th century, Bordeaux has been exporting its many wine varietals to the rest of Europe, and although the last couple of centuries saw this city of 650,000 fall into general disrepair, there is at long last a massive urban renewal project underway.

The Celts and Romans
Bordeaux has been occupied for thousands of years. First by the Celts, who established a small village they named Burdigala around 300 BC, then by the Romans, who displaced the Celts in 60 BC. With the fall of the Roman Empire came hundreds of years of strife and chaos. Until the 12th century, Bordeaux was successively plundered by the Vikings, Vandals, Visigoths, Francs and Normans.

English rule
Peace finally returned to the city in 1154, when the Duchess Eleanor of Aquitaine married the French Count Henri Plantagenet, who became King Henry II of England within months of the wedding. Bordeaux fell under English control for the next three centuries, during which time it began to grow and prosper. By exporting wine to England, it earned its reputation in the wine trade.

Other information

• Bordeaux has 113,000 hectares of vineyards and 57 appellations producing some 800 million bottles of wines a year. All the vineyards are away (at least 1-2 hours drive) from the city of Bordeaux.

Movie, Movie, Movie

As a crazy movie lovers, I watched a couple of movies within a month.

April 15, 2009 (Wednesday)

First IMAX movie @ Manchester – Watchman

Taking the advantage of the Orange promotion on Wednesday, I watched my first IMAX movie @ Manchester at Odeon.

The film takes place in 1985 in an alternate universe where Richard Nixon is in his fifth term as president, the U.S. and Soviet Union are one push of the button away from a nuclear holocaust, and costumed superheroes have been outlawed. That is, except for the sadistic mercenary known as The Comedian (Jeffrey Dean Morgan) and the god-like Dr. Manhattan (Billy Crudup), both of whom now work for the government. When The Comedian is murdered, however, masked vigilante Rorschach (Jackie Earle Haley) begins investigating, fearing that this is only the first in a series of killings targeted towards ex-superheroes. But after teaming up with former partner, Nite Owl (Patrick Wilson), and second-generation crime fighter Silk Spectre (Malin Akerman), to further explore his theory, Rorschach discovers that it’s something much bigger.

As anyone who has read the graphic novel can tell you, there’s a lot more to the story than that, and Snyder does his best to cram as much into the film’s massive 163-minute runtime as he possibly can. In fact, with the exception of the brilliant opening detailing The Comedian’s murder, the first hour is dedicated almost exclusively to backstory, with more flashbacks than an episode of “Lost.”

The IMAX experience was awesome, but with the scenes of shocking violence, fragmented story, I will not recommend the movie to most of my friends.

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April 18, 2009 (Saturday)
The Haunting in Connecticut

In the movie, Virginia Madsen and Martin Donovan play struggling parents whose son (Kyle Gallner) is undergoing cancer treatment in 1987. They rent a place near the hospital which is on the market for peanuts. “Well, it does have a bit of a history,” mumbles the owner. It’s a former funeral home which really pushes the history boat out. Every five minutes we’re treated to a charred phantom in a dumb waiter or tinful of human eyelids.

As a “scary” movie.. it is not that scary, yet there’s a strong emotional core here, and a pretty good script!

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April 19, 2009 (Sunday)

Birthday celebration @ La Tasca, Deansgate

After watching a movie Race to Witch Mountain, we headed to La Tasca (the Spanish Restaurant) @ Deansgate to celebrate one of my classmates’ birthday. I had been to La Tasca in Bristol and Brighton, yet this was the first time I went to the one in Manchester.  The atmosphere was awesome, with a good selection of food to choose from. Good tapas and regional Asturias dishes. Quality of food was average in U.K. standard. We had a great night out there!

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April 25, 2009 (Saturday)

BBQ @ Chorlton

On Saturday, we had a garden BBQ at one of my classmates’ house, near Alexander Park. It was not that far from city center. From our school, it only took 15 mins by bus to reach there.

This was the first time I toured around this area. Houses are mostly semi-detached, with a small garden at the back. I realized there are really lots of choices in housing in Manchester. We had a lovely evening, with a mild sunshine (well in Manchester standard, it was awesome already!). We had a crazy drinking party till 1a.m., farewelling a gang of friends who were heading to London in the coming week.

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May 9, 2009 (Saturday)

X-Men Origins: Wolverine

The film begins in 1840s Canada, when a young James Logan (aka Wolverine) and his half-brother Victor Creed (aka Sabretooth) discover that their future paths are inextricably connected. Cue the film’s best sequence: a gallop through key military conflicts — the American Civil War, Dunkirk , the Vietnam War – until the pair of them are shown trussed before a firing squad and awaiting execution.

As such, I feel that the 100 minute movie is strongest during its first half. The start of the tale is more or less open territory for accomplished director Gavin Hood (Tsotsi, Rendition) to do what he does best – focus on characterisation, crafting an almost mythological take on the Wolverine/Sabretooth relationship, linking their childhood together and bonding them through shared tragedy. The casting of their fathers is exceptional – worth pointing out on its own.

I like X-men Origins better than the rest of the X-mens, even though the story is generally weaker than the other, yet this esposide is more down-to-earth. And of course, Huge Jackman is awesome!

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May 10, 2009 (Sunday)

Dinner @ Numero + Movie: Star Trek

The next day, we had another dinner + movie night, farewelling another classmate. We first stopped by an Italian Restaurant near the AMC in Manchester - Numero. This was the first time I went to this restaurant. Surprisingly it was awesome! Situated in the huge Manchester235 complex (eating, drinking, gaming), the restaurant was filled with classy decor. It was a pity that there were not many people inside, probably due to its remoted location. I particular like its fantastic set menus - 3 courses with drink for £12.50 or £15 only!

After dinner, we headed to  AMC nearby to watch Star Trek. Although I was not a fan of Star Trek, I had to say the movie bursted back to life with a resplendence, charm and gusto that are thrilling to see! Compare with X-men Origin, the story was much stronger. One of the more surprising fonts of pleasure is the screenplay, by Transformers scribes Roberto Orci and Alex Kurtzman – there’s a lot of good, bickering camaraderie and just enough coarse one-liners (“Are you out of your Vulcan mind?”) to keep things buoyant!

Reference:

http://www.restaurantsofmanchester.com/italian/numero.htm

Lang Lang Concert @ Manchester

April 14, 2009 @ 19:30  (Tuesday) (Orginally scheduled in 21 Jan 2008)

Following his thrilling debut Bridgewater Hall performance in October 2005, I finally had a chance to see the live performance of China’s hottest young pianist, Lang Lang, for his return of  this much anticipated rescheduled date tonight.

Lang Lang's performance @ the bridgewater hall

Lang Lang really had an extraordinary ability to connect with audience on a personal level and established himself as one of the most exciting arists. I immersed in his dazzling technique and captivating performance. He demonstrated superbly the breath and subtlety of his playing with one of Schubert’s moving late sonatas, Bartók’s driving and powerful Piano Sonata, a selection of Debussy’s delicate Préludes and Chopin’s virtuosic Polonaise in A-flat. Lang Lang finished the programme with 2 encores – the Chinese folk songs.

What a wonderful performance!

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Reference:
Programme :

• Franz Schubert – 1: Sonata for Piano No 20 in A, D959
• Bela Bartók – 2: Sonata for Piano, Sz80
• Claude Debussy – 3: Selected Preludes
• Fryderyk Chopin – 4: Polonaise No 6 in A flat, ‘Heroic’, Op 53

Do you know?

Still only 26, Lang Lang has enjoyed a busy and successful year in 2008. He has played as part of some of the world’s greatest cultural and sporting events, including the commencement of the football World Cup competition and the closing of the Euro 2008 finals. In August, over 5 billion people viewed Lang Lang’s performance in Beijing’s opening ceremony of the Games of the XXIX Olympiad where he was seen as a symbol of the youth and future of China.

1st Easter Holiday in Manchester

Time flies, I still remembered that last year I spent my Easter holidays with my family in Paris and preparing the exams the day after. This year, I selected to spent my Easter Holiday in Manchester!

Like rest of the Europe, most shops, including the big shopping mall Arndale and key supermarkets, were closed in the key days of Easter – Apr 10-12. Streets were totally deserted. It reminded me the time when I was in Washington D.C. 5 years back, spending my Thanksgiving there.

April 3, 2009 (Friday)

First time on the the Wheel of Manchester

Everytime I walked by Manchester Arndale, I saw the spectacular Wheel of Manchester. Although the outlook cannot compare London Eye, it is still amazing to find such beautiful wheel in Manchester. Today, after dinner and a brief walk in Victoria Station area, I tried the Wheel of Manchester for the very first time.

First time on the Wheel of Manchester

The experience was better than I expected. Lasting approximately 13 minutes, I enjoyed the spectacular views over  urban landscapes in Manchester. Being in 60m up in the sky, I saw Manchester in a way as I have never seen it before. The capsule itself was equipped with high-technology - climate controlled, glass floor and commentary pointing out local landmarks were available.

It was a lovely experience!

Reference: Price £6.50, http://worldtouristattractions.co.uk/wta_wheel_manchester.php

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 April 10, 2009 (Friday)

Enjoying opera Mamma Mia! @ London

After watching the movie verion of Mamma Mia!, I longed wanna watch the live opera version in London. I finally got a chance to watch it during the Easter Holiday!

Mamma Mia! @ Prince Of Wales Theatre, London

The opera was lovely! Although there was not any spectular scenery like other operas, the songs and singer performance were awesome. The performance started at 2:30p.m. I was surprised to see there were lots of families with kids come to enjoy the show. Kids @ 4-7 years old sitting quitely enjoying the whole 2 hours show. Some were even singing  quietly with the singer! I can see the power of ABRA shows, penetrating people from different age!

The other highlight of the show came to the end, when it intended to set the scene like a disco and perform 3 songs – Mamma Mia, Dancing Queen, Waterloo. The atmosphere was terrific! All of the audience, including the kids, stood up, clapping their hands, dancing around their seats.

I love Mamma Mia!

Reference: London Opera Tickets: http://www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk/

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April 12, 2009 (Sunday)

Nice walk around Manchester

Spring finally came! Today, we had a super nice sunshine in Manchester, which was quite rare in Manchester. I took the chance to walk with my classmates around the city.

Unlike a day ago, the street was full of people, holding a beer on hand and enjoying the sunbathing. After a short walk, we selected a nice garden bar in city center, enjoying the afternoon of Manchester!

 

A Day out @ Peak District

April 11, 2009 (Saturday)

On the Saturday Easter weekend, we decided to take a day out @ Peak District.

Gathered at the Chorlton Bus Station in the city center, we took the 9:15a.m. transpeak bus to Bakewell. It took us two and a half hours to reach there! (Bus Route: Stockport -> Buxon -> Bakewell -> Dearby -> Nothingham)

Bypass the beautiful town – Buxton

Buxton - Cultural Capital of the Peak District. Once the bus stepped in Bxton, I was stunned by its beauty. It is a Spa Town, based at the heart of the Peak District in the county of Derbyshire. The whole town is blessed with stunning scenery, magnificent architecture and a wealth of shops. I will definitely pay a visit before I go back to Asia.

A Day out @ Peak District - Bakewell

Arrived @ Bakewell

We arrived at Bakewell at around 11-ish. Bakewell’s name is said to derive from the warm springs in the area – the Domesday book entry calls the town ‘Badequella’, meaning Bath-well. The town was built on the West bank of the Wye at a spot where it was fordable and the site was probably occupied in Roman times! Bakewell has one of the oldest markets in the area, dating from at least 1300. The first recorded fair was held in 1254. Markets are still held every Monday today!

The Lavender Tea Shop

I guessed 9:15a.m. bus was quite early for all of us. We kind of feeling very tired by the time we reached Bakewell. As a result, we stopped by a traditional English Tea House for a cup of coffee before we continued our journey.

The Lavender Tea Shop situated inside a small alley. It is an elegant tea shop with casual environment, serving an assortment of delightful sandwiches, soups, salads, and entrees, and 100 amazing tea selections imported from around the world! I ordered the special hot chocolate from the menu.  I particular like the fact that it served in traditional manner – from the waiter/ress, decoration (including the washroom!), to every utensil on the table! It reminded me the tea house I visited in Stratford upon avon!

While we enjoyed the cup of coffee/tea/hot chocolate and the English scone, we chated anything – friends, jobs in the world, income taxes around the countries (e.g.  28% in Mexico, 30% in Peru, 25%-40% in France!). What a nice morning!

Picnic @ Bakewell

After the coffee @ Lavender Tea house, we took a walk in the town of Bakewell. Bakewell has a full range of shops, pubs and restaurants. There are some very pleasant walks along the river from the bridge in the centre of town. Downstream leads to the recreation ground and upstream takes you to the site of Arkwright’s mill.

We stopped by a huge green field where we spent our afternoon there - playing football, having picnic. Lots of people were out there as well, walking the dog, father and son playing football / cricket etc. With the car parks completely full in Bakewell, now I knew where the locals went to during holidays.

Suprisingly, at 2:00p.m., there was a semi-professional football team “invade” the field and played a football match there. The 2 teams were professionally dressed as Aston Villa and one other local team in League A. They had 3 referees, corner kick flags, 2 coaches who kept on yelling on the side. We spent the rest of the house watching a professional game!

A walk @ Monsal Trail

Half-way of the football match, we decided to take off and walked around Peak District. We selected the  Monsal Trail, a former railway line converted and managed by the Peak District National Park Authority, to explore a bit of Peak District. It reminded me the Devil’s’ dyke in Brighton!

The scenery, however, was not as good as I expected for this trail.

As a result, after 45 minutes work, we headed back to the city center for a delicious icecream and fish & chips!

What a nice day!

More Photos @ Photo Gallery http://community.webshots.com/album/571230547hBCVaU

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Reference:

• Bus to Peak District: http://www.transpeak.co.uk/
• Visit Buxton: http://www.visitbuxton.co.uk/

Italy worst earthquake

April 6, 2009 (Monday)

Italy’s worst eathquake in nearly 30 years turned the historic medieval centre of L’Aquila into a ghost city. Since I came back from Milan, I kept on following news in Italy. L’Acquila, a hilltop town on the edge of the Apennine mountain range now better known as a universiy city, has suffered quakes through the centuries. “Such a beautiful city of history and tradition, it deserves to be saved”

Seeing residents filed out of L’Acquila dragging suitcases behind them, empty streets were silent except for the occasional car alarm on TV. I felt really sad. About 1,500 people were injured. 

Italy's worst eathquake in nearly 30 years turned the historic medieval centre of L'Aquila into a ghost city

A young student on the street in shock simply said: “We are waiting for our friends.”

Many medieval homes and famed churches in the central region of Abruzzo also bore heavy damage. The dome of the 13-th century Santa Maria Paganica had collapsed. Elderly residents sat dazed in the piazza outside, their friends beneath rubble nearby. Streets were filled with debris and cars crushed flat by fallen blocks of stone. Few buildings were left unscathed and residents wondered whether it would be months or years before they could safely return. Older houses and buildings made of stone, particularly in villages that have not seen much restoration, collapsed like straw houses.

It was the worst quake in Italy this millennium.

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Do you know?

• The earthquake, which struck at just after 3:30a.m. on Monday morning, was the most devastating since 1980, when more than 2,700 people were killed in the town of Eboli, south of Naples.

Reference

• The Big Picture Boston.com http://www.boston.com/bigpicture/2009/04/the_laquila_earthquake.html